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Your Wardrobe Unlock'd: The costume maker's companion

Now you have all the pieces that you need for your pattern. The first thing you want to do is cut out a mock up of that pattern and sew all the pieces together.
First you will add the thumb piece. Start at the base of the thumb and work your way to the top. Remember that this piece will be fitted like sleeve, long side on the back of the hand and the short side on the inside of the palm. Like the arm the thumb needs more room on the side that it will be pulling away from. When you are fitting for a doublet you cross your arms to make certain you have room to move. The thumb needs this same room to move. If any cutting needs to be made, make it on the body of the glove NOT the thumb piece.Next you will sew up the sides. Start at the top of the pinky and sew down.
Next you will sew on the fourchettes. Start at the bottom with these. Sew upward leaving a space at the top. This will be finished later after all the fourchettes are done.

If your are going to be working with leather you will need to punch all your holes prior to sewing depending on the weight of the leather you chose. Glovers needles are highly recommended for this. Like an epee they have three sides that are extremely sharp. There is an adhesive that can aid you with keeping all the parts together while you are sewing. It is specifically made from leather hemming. It will work for this too. It is widely believed and written that adhesives were used in the aiding of leather working but they were not permanent and not meant to hold the seams together forever. You will want to work with silk button twist or something similar that is just as strong. Some grades of embroiders floss will also work, ask your sales clerk for button thread strength in your floss. Regular button sewing thread will also work or canvas thread. Both of these are modern creations, an evolution of the original item, and will work just as well but they may not come in the variety of colors that silk comes in.

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Baronessa Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Franchesca V. Havas

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